BETA PHOTO: The three pitches at the Super Chimney
Description
This route, though only 5.10+, should not be attempted by those who are near their limit at that grade. The falls are not long but if you take one you will hit something... one side or the other of the chimney. P1 - climb a soft crack to a ledge, then into the chimney on ruble. Belay in the back of the chimney at the ledges highpoint. P2 - climb up a crack for 3 or so feet, then onto a loose ledge, then begin the stem fest. Clip about 7 pieces of fixed gear for the next 100 feet. Some pins, some bolts. Stem onto the pillar and do some easy moves, then a fun arete move to reach the summit. A chain anchor is now on the top.
Location
A 30 minute hike up the Moab Rim RV trail. The climb starts at the base of the right side of the pillar.
Protection
1 set of friends, some slings, and a few draws. You need two 60's to do the rappel. Hang your ropes on the outside of the pillar Rap from the summit standing on the inside then follow the lines around to the outside. Its a cool rappel.
We went through from the right, but started on the left side. I didn't see any other way to do it. The original route had a bolt ladder at the end, which I was told was chopped by you and Jimmie. Anyway, great route. I'd like to replace the pin that was pulled in the chimney.
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