Mountain Project: Climbing Moab Area

Submitted By: Tradkelly on Nov 29, 2001
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 38.5232 Longitude: -109.6024
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Description

Kane Springs Canyon has lots of varied climbing. Many Cutler hoodoos line the road and provide strange short climbs like mini Fisher Towers. The Ice Cream Parlor is entirely a trad area (as far as I know) on good rock on Navajo and Wingate formations, with lots of possibilities for future hard free and aid route development. Routes on various crags range from 5.8 slabs/cracks to 5.12- and C2 grade IV climbs. Primitive camping areas are located along the roadside near some of the crags, and there is a potable natural spring 2.2 miles into the dirt road. BASE jumpers frequent the Tombstones and are fun to watch, or you can do one of the long trad or free routes on them.

Getting There

From Main Street Moab (US 191), head west on Kane Creek Blvd from the McDonalds on the south end of town, or intersect Kane Creek Blvd from 400 North. Head north as you leave town, under the east-facing cliffs above town, and past the scenic chairlift. The road continues north and then turns south as it passes the Portal and parallels the river for three miles (paved), opposite Wall Street. Mark distances for rocks from the cattleguard about 3 miles along the south portion of the road, where pavement ends. A high-clearance 2WD will make the road with no problems. Expect switchbacks, graded speedbumps (difficult for low-slung vehicles), and big rocks in the roadway.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kane Springs Canyon:

Crack 3 5.8 Trad Ice Cream Parlor

Critical Mass 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Ice Cream Parlor

Wolverine 5.8 Trad Ice Cream Parlor

Deep Voodoo 5.8 C2 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 380 feet, Grade V The Cirque of the Climbable...

Crack 2 5.8+ Trad Ice Cream Parlor

Hallow Souls 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II Space Tower

A Good Day to Die 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Ice Cream Parlor

Knee Grinder 5.9+ R Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Ice Cream Parlor

Hot Karl Sunday 5.10c Sport, 90 feet Ice Cream Parlor

Playing Hooky 5.10d C2 Aid, 4 pitches, 375 feet, Grade IV The Cirque of the Climbable...

Ice Cream Parlor crack 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Ice Cream Parlor

Corner Route 5.12- Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III The Cirque of the Climbable...

Featured Route For Kane Springs Canyon

Josh Janes leading 'Ice Cream Parlor Crack (5.11a). Photo taken from the anchors by Tony Bubb, 2004.

Ice Cream Parlor crack 5.11- UT : Moab Area : ... : Ice Cream Parlor

When you park and look at the Ice Cream Parlor this is the snazzy looking crack on the right side of the crag. Take the path that leads to the right and onto a large ledge. This crack is a really beefy flake in a very open book. The start is spicy then you break into 50ft of perfect yellow tcus, a bulge where the crack widens and flares then to the bolt anchor. Total desert style, stem on the smears, crank the fingers, fire the cams and get m...[more] Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Kane Springs Canyon

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By Anonymous Coward
Apr 27, 2002

Just to let you know, there are a few, not many, but a few sport routes like Possessed(5.11d). The climbing here is GREAT, routes like Ice Cream Parlor(5.11a) are really fun.

By Steve Forbes
Apr 5, 2005

I climbed here this past weekend and was impressed. I've done a fair amount of face climbs, but this was my first time up some cracks. I don't know the names of the climbs I did, but I heard they were both 5.8's and that felt about right. All in all I loved climbing here and it was way less crowded than Wall Street! Be careful though, I had to cross a spot where the creek was running across the road, I made it in a VW Jetta, but it was a little nerve racking.

By cammo
Jun 21, 2007

There's a silly lump we climbed here (just over Hurrah Pass), years ago, that we named EB's Love Muscle, after the famed desert guidebook writer.....he changed the name in the published works......Cammo

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