Steve Swanke on the summit of Zeus, Moses in the b...
Description
This climb had a tiny bit of free climbing, and then mostly all aid off many bolts. There were 35 bolts on this climb, but the bolts were removed, and this climb no longer exists.
Location
This climb went up the northeast ridge of Zeus.
Protection
You USED to need alot of quick draws and a few cams.(# 2 and # 4 friend)
To quote Eric in DR 1, "Bolts placed on the historic first ascent were chopped by an unknown party playing God, leaving behind the graffiti of bolt-hole scars."
Pretty lame that someone would chop another person’s route, especially when it is in the middle of the dessert.
During my first trip to Canyonlands in 1988, I was purchasing Bjornstad's original Desert Rock (1988) in the visitor's center, when the ranger pointed out Bjornstad standing next to me. I basically introduced myself as a desert rookie, and he signed the new guidebook: "May Desert Rock entice you into frequent holidays to the splendor and magic of canyon country...", wished us well, and asked that we come visit after our climbing adventure. According to the guidebook, Northeast sounded straightforward. Armed with a free rack and extra biners, we were surprised to find few, if any, bolts on the second pitch and were forced to retreat. Upon explaining our findings to Mr. Bjornstad when we returned to Moab, he could only exclaim,"When you climb in the Desert, you should always carry a bolt kit." Point well taken. A great lesson learned early-on, and thanks Eric, I have been enjoying the magic of canyon country ever since....
Are the bolt holes in good shape and useable enough for removable bolts like those made by Climb Tech?
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Apr 8, 2008
Nope. There really aren't any holes. Who ever chopped this route did kinda that: chopped it. Most of the holes still have a bolt in them, with a mangled and/or flattened hanger. Some are bolt shafts. Didn't recall any holes. Looks aweful.