The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
The crux of Double Bock is short but fierce. Gently overhanging .5 fingers to .75 ringlocks (Camalots) is what you can expect at the crux. But the climbing eases up to 5.9 hands after that making this a reasonable 5.12 for the Creek. If it wasn't for the soft and slightly loose rock at the top of the route this would be a four star classic for sure.
The new guide book topo (2009) shows climbing a crack to the left of the main crack and then traversing into the main crack. This seems like an error to me since the left crack is tips and it is relatively easy to get to the main crack from the top of the slab.
Location
This route is located on the far right side of the wall just left of "Huffe-Wiesse". Follow the trail right about 100m past the "Optimator" until you get to a grassy section. In the Grassy area the trail makes a 180 degree u-turn back left and up onto a ledge. Follow the ledge for about 50m or so and look for a splitter finger crack up above an easy slab/corner.
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