The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
A 50' black corner to a choice between a 5.10 hands corner or 5.11 finger splitter. It starts off as a difficult laybacking boulder problem. I left a fixed nut because small cams take up the only holds and a pillar looms below. The nut makes it safe and solid. Then .11- finger climbing leads to a ledge that used to have a jingus two pin anchor in a splitter crack. I "replaced" the anchor, and in a fit of ruthless vandalism, moved it another 50' feet higher to where a sweet 5.10 corner and a 5.11 splitter converge. The route continues via a blocky flake system to a bolted offwidth roof at least one more pitch (I only spied all this from the ground). It appears that the FA probably aided a few more feet above the new anchor (knifeblade pin scars evident) and swung into the flake. It is possible to step left into the flake system from the top of the splitter, however. The whole route seems to have been nailed originally, as angle scars pock even the 2 inch cracks.
I'd give it three stars, but the fact that the crux is significantly harder than the rest of the route detracts a little. But the upper splitter is a classic finger stack trainer; the low angle, footers, and pods keep it from being brutal, but rattly stacks are required.
Location
This is a corner 50' to the right of Generic Crack. The book may claim it as a two pitch unknown at 5.11. The anchor was a originally lower. It is now a stout but worthy 105' route. Very clean.
Protection
.4" to hands. If you use the splitter variation, you don't need hand size pieces. Be careful lowering with a 60 meter rope- you just make it to a pillar and easy down climb.
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