The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Double kneebars and double fist jams on the crux b...
Description
Fun and burly journey if you want to work on some wide crack and chimney technique. Stout moves right off the ground with pulling a roof into 15' of steep wide hands. Then the real fun begins with pulling into the 80' flaring chimney with a 4-5" crack in the back. Sweet stacking, armbarring, heeltoeing and kneebarring for a long ways through here leads past a bolt and into the technical crux of the route, an intimidating fist crack through a bulge. After this, about 20 or 30' of sustained wide hand and fist crack climbing finishes the route. While this route doesn't seem to be traveled often (I was eating some sand most of the time), it is super fun with great pro and interesting moves, definitely an experience!
Location
Immediately left of Too Much Cake.
Protection
Three or four #3 camalots for the beginning and end. Lots of #4 camalots (I probably placed about six or so, and was walking some of them). Two or three #5 camalots are nice to have also. I brought a #6 Camalot and placed it, but it is definitely not necessary. There is one needless bolt before the bulge. There was an anchor a few feet above the bulge consisting of a fixed stopper and a bolt without a hanger. I didn't really like the looks of it, so I continued for another 15' or so of sweet fist crack climbing with pretty bad rope drag, placed a #2 camalot and tension traversed a few feet right to the anchors of Too Much Cake, which consists of a good bolt with a hanger and two bolts without hangers. As of November '08, the webbing definitely needs replacing. I got down from this anchor with one 70 meter rope.
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