The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Start by climbing an open corner with some face features and difficult stemming/smearing to a large pod. To protect this, use a blue Alien below the pod. You can also stick clip or maybe toss in a large stopper into the crack above. Above the pod, climb an offwidth crack with nice face features. The crack eventually turns into nice hands before the anchor on the right. Rating this climb is difficult as the initial moves are pretty hard (bouldery) and the crack above is maybe 10+/11-. A fun climb, in my opinion.
Location
Located 50 feet right of the popular hand crack, Unnamed 5.11-, on the left side of Broken Tooth. Climbs a right facing corner with a large pod 15 feet up. Plaque at the base.
Protection
The start takes a blue Alien and/or a large stopper. Above, cams from #1 Camalot to new #5 or #6 Camalot, with doubles in #4. Two bolt chain anchor.
RSS Feed
