The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Good crack climbing in a left-facing corner. Gets a little funky where the two cracks join before the anchors.
Location
This is the left-facing corner with twin cracks at the bottom to the left of Scarface and Where's Carruthers?.
Protection
Mostly green Camalots to blue Camalots with heavy on the red and gold Camalots. Also possible to use a couple smaller pieces or a bigger piece where the cracks join up.
Varied climbing with different widths and movement. Twin crack start. I took the right wide hands crack, the others tool the left corner. Can stem both cracks up to the chimney box. It's not over there though!
I think this was labeled 'wheres cruthers' in my book. Didnt see a plaque. Twin crack start with ring locks on the left and hands/fists on the right up to an all day rest pod. Varied climbing past that through a 'roofish type thing' to another no hands rest if you need it. some more fun moves gets you to the top! super awesome!
Fun route, not just a walk-the-cams splitter. My friends and I replaced one of the bolts and replaced webbing with chains in Sept. '07. There was a previously chopped anchor about 30' up on the right wall, super lame to have such a low anchor which avoids the interesting climbing. I placed a large stopper or two on this route, there are some funky double-cracks-meeting-can't-place-cams spots.
To PhilT, "Where's Caruthers" is between this and scarface...
There's many options for protection on this route... if taking the left crack at the base, 0.75 camalots wil get you to the first pod. If taking the right side, start with a 0.75 or 1, then some 2's and 3's depending on how much gear you want. For the rest of the route, toss in some big gear here and there, or just use red camalots in the crack that runs up the back of the route (with some runners)... great route, with fun moves and variation.
RSS Feed
