The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This is the obvious, chalked up off-finger splitter just right of top sirloin. Climb the splitter to a ledge (orange tcu). Continue up the narrowing crack using a bizarre horizontal lieback technique to another small ledge (yellow and blue tcu). Some corner changing and occasional face holds get you to the anchor (purple tcu, black alien).
Location
Just left of top sirloin
Protection
Cams from orange tcu down to gray tcu, 2 – 3 of each size.
This route is abnormaly sporty for IC. The route is characterized by delicate moves on tight fingers linked by face holds. An exellent line...
By Christopher Hill From: Charlottesville, VA May 11, 2009 rating: 5.11+
In my opinion, one of the most beautiful and pure fun routes around. Not typical plug-and-chug jamming or laybacking, but the finger locks are just stellar and there are a few spicy face moves to mix it up
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