The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Heat Searcher is a phenominal climb at a cliff of phenominal climbs. It obviously receives less traffic than the other classics, perhaps because of the apparently chossy approach pitch, or perhaps just because there is an approach pitch, period. In any case, those who overlook this climb are missing out.
Begin in the chimney behind the pillar just left of Rock Lobster.
P1: Climb the loose chimney and then eventually up twin cracks on somewhat suspect rock to a good belay ledge. Despite some poor rock, the pitch climbs extremely well. 5.10+, 120'.
P2: Launch up a short bomb bay slot and then pull up onto the extremely steep thin hands crack. 5.11+, 70'.
Protection
P1: Bring the stuff you need for pitch two plus a selection of TCU's.
P2: Camalots, in order of placement:
1x #3.5 1x #2 4x #1's 2x 0.75's 1x #2 (for the pod) 2x 0.5's Draws for the anchor.
RSS Feed
