The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Mike on the upper half of Mister Peanut, belayed b...
Description
Mr. Peanut lies up and approx 20' left of Chocolate Corner. There is a somewhat hidden hand crack on the right, just left of a wide crack. Start up the hand crack to a small roof (crux), which narrows down to consistent fingers to the anchor. It is rated 11+ in both the older Sharp End guidebook as well as the new Bloom book, but I would argue it's more like 10+, possibly 11-.
Protection
Mostly purple Camalots (0.5) and/or orange TCUs, with a couple smaller and larger pieces for good measure.
I onsighted this route, so there is no way it is 5.11. I have never onsighted a 5.11. I'd give it 5.10+ at most. 4.5 Camalots protect well in the offwidth on the upper right.
I thought after climbing this route a few years ago that the rating was for climbing the thin crack, not the one where you can wedge your a$$ in.
I have climbed it both ways and if you use that wide crack on the right it is way easier(10+). But if you stick to the little crack once you hit the little roof, it is much harder(11+).
I remember there being some self restraint involved to not use the wide crack, but then again it has been awhile since i have climbed it, i could be way off.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Oct 16, 2007
"I thought after climbing this route a few years ago that the rating was for climbing the thin crack, not the one where you can wedge your a$$ in."
Oh, I guess you mean like that? That would explain it.
yes, but if the 11+ grade is for just the thin crack I'm not sure where you draw the line and say no more since you have to use the right crack at the bottom.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Oct 16, 2007
GEAR:Fingers size gear and maybe one big piece but you could get by with some fingers size gear the whole way up. 5.11+ I was thinking more like 5.9 or 10-. Contrived climbing is to goofy for me. dont let 5.11 plus scare you away from this one. Maybe the easiest route I have done at Donnely canyon. Have fun
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