Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Broken Tooth
Show routes:
Select route...
Blue Sky Mining 
Broken Tooth 
Chemotherapy 
Dental Floss Tycoon 
Gingivitis 
Heat Searcher 
Inflictor 
Midnight Oil 
Mondo 
Mushrooms With Hefner 
Numbing the Wild 
Polygrip 
Pussy Wuss Crack aka The Incisor 
Rhythm Method 
Rock Lobster 
Unbelievable 
unnamed 
Unnamed ( 11-) 
Unnamed (Left side) 
unnamed 5.10/11 (?) 
Unnamed short 11- 

Unbelievable 

5.12

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12 [details]
Length: 90 feet
Views: 496 page views

Submitted By: eric dixon on Nov 6, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>>

Climber just below the Crux


Description 

Great looking right-facing corner. Starts with a few feet of hands and quickly slims down. There are a few pods for a tight-hand jam and a "rest". The crux is a short section where the crack pinches down to tips.


Location 

Route starts on the right side of the wall, just a little farther to the right of Broken Tooth. Can't miss this corner.


Protection 

A selection of pieces in the fingers to tight-hands range (purple to green Camalots, a blue Alien). Some hand pieces as well (red and gold Camalots).



Comments on Unbelievable Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Shainman
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 15, 2007

Kind of vague bordering on incomplete rack description...

Never placed a single yellow Alien sized cam but definitely a concentration of .5 and .75 Camalots with a #3 at the start and to protect the OW flare move at the finish. One purple TCU adequately protects the crux move without blocking the holds and be sure to have a couple 1 and 2 Camalots as well.

Great Route!

By Scott Bennett
From: Superior, CO
Nov 6, 2009

Great climb: steep pumpy corner to a big move. Nothing smaller than a purple camalot is needed, the small cam that you might place at the crux is bad (I ripped a blue alien), pumpy to place, and just a foot or two above a bomber finger-sized cam.

Have fun,
-Scott