The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This amazing climb has everything! Endurance laybacks, great hands, squeeze chimney to a fist crack finish.
Start in a perfect left facing corner which goes to great hands soon after. After a good rest stance, execute the bulge which eats #2 Camalots. Continue up to a tight flared chimney utilizing a series of good edges out left. Finish with a fist crack to the anchor.
Make sure to save at least one #3 Camalot for the finish.
By Jeff G. From: Fort Collins Nov 13, 2006 rating: 5.11
This pitch is incredible! One of the best pitches I have done at the creek. I loved getting into the flare, wild and overhanging, but with a perfect #2 Camalot crack size. Getting out of the flare was the Mr. Hyde version of getting into it, with a tight 3.5 Camalot size to big #3 Camalots for full pump factor.
By Josh Ewing From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 5, 2008 rating: 5.11c
Ditto on the superlatives. A sweet crack that doesn't get done too often. It'll test all your 5.11 crack skills. Don't trust the book's gear suggestion. Starts with #1.5 friend layback that gradually opens to hands. A very physical and overhanging section on perfect hands leads to a tricky move getting into the flare, which takes #3.5 friends in the back. I'd recommend at least 4-5 of this size. I'd also recommend at least (3) #4 friends (old 3.5 camalots).
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