The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Mike Morley heads back down from Dental Floss Tyco...
Description
I wish the MP had a rating between good and great: a 2.5 star.
The softest 11 in Bloom's book?
A long, fun right-facing corner with rests. The first half follows a single crack of hands and wide hands. The second half has double cracks, wide on the left, thin on the right. No hard moves, but gear/lead management is an issue. There is a decent stance at the anchors, so if the leader doesn't feel like hauling a 2nd rope up there, he/she can comfortably belay on high.
At about 2/3's height take a look to your left and check out the massive eye bolt on the next climb over (not in Bloom). Was a jackhammer used to drill that hole?
Location
Starts in the alcove on the left side of the huge pillar where the trail comes up.
Protection
Camalots: several #2 & #3s, 1 or 2 #4s, a few in the .4 to #1 range, draws and runners. Zircon-encrusted tweezers.
This is a long (maybe more like 165' than 150'), fun route. My partner and I agreed that 5.10b is a more appropriate rating.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Mar 19, 2007 rating: 5.10
Soft for sure. No reason to call it 11-, but in no way am I bad-mouthing the climb. Just as you get tired of one sort of move, you start on another. Many stars for length, continuity, rock quality, and variety with good gear.
Rack should include more #3 camalots and less #3 friends. A new-style #4 camalot was adequate and the old heavy clunker was not needed. Furthermore, take an extra 1" and .75" for the top then you need less big gear, as you protect with small stuff on the right side instead. 170' long by our estimation.
The name of this route comes from the Frank Zappa song Montana, which is on the classic Overnite Sensation album (1973).
Sample lyrics -
"Movin' to Montana soon Gonna be a Dental Floss tycoon (yes I am) Movin' to Montana soon Gonna be a mennil-toss flykune"
As noted in the rack description, don't forget the tweezers!
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Mar 23, 2007 rating: 5.10
Not to be missed!
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Nov 15, 2009 rating: 5.10c/d
This climb has some great variety. It goes from hands, thin hands, hands, squeeze, then fists with a finger crack. The crux is probably the last 10ft to the anchors, when you lieback the finger crack. This is a full value 165ft pitch.
Rack: 1 #0.3, 2 #0.4, 3 #0.5, 1-2 #0.75, 3 #1, 6-7 #2, 5 #3, #4fr, #4C4 Save the small stuff and the #3/#4C4's for the top...
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