The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
BETA PHOTO: Tofu Crack is the obvious left facing corner.
Description
This route starts in a left facing corner near the far left side of 2nd Meat Wall. It is one of the "cleaner" routes we found on this somewhat obscure wall. Start off climbing a pedestal via easy OW moves to the base of the beautiful crack. Good hands and a parallel crack(seam) to the left, leads to a small roof. Crank through the roof (perfect hands #2 camalot) to another smaller roof. Turn the roof (you can get a .75 camalot before you commit) and enter a sweeet layback section after which, you get a great rest on a small ledge. Pull through yet another roof (#2 camalots) and top out at the chains (#1 before the chains)
Location
From the trail, head left at the base of the cliff all the way around, till you get to a large left facing alcove. "Pastafarian" 5.12 is just right of this route and is easily identified by two bolts on the face near the top.
Protection
Camalots: 1- .75 (just before the laybacks) 1- #1 (just before the chains) 4- #2 4- #3
I second the above comment. This route is longer than the 100 feet stated in Bloom's guidebook. I couldn't reach the ground on my 60 m rope, but my friend who is 40 lb heavier could (just). Unless you have a stretchy 60m and weight in at above 200 lb, use a 70 m line or downclimb a few meter of 5.7 climbing.
word on the street is that there was another accident on this route (lowered off the end of the rope) over thanksgiving. sounds like the dude got pretty jacked up. second time in about 3 months. be careful and pay attention.
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