The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This route is found just to the left of Layaway Plan and cannot be mistaken since the name says it all. The first 20 feet is the meat of the climb, just insert your leg and start stackin. The rest of the climb is only about 5.8 but you need to walk the #5 for a bit and beware of the serrating edge.
Protection
Camalots-(2) #4's, (2) #4.5"s, (1) #5. I used one of the #4's at the beginning and found a crappy placement for the other near the top. It might be better to leave a #4 and take another #5, except that you have to lug the boat anchor then.
I had one #6 wild country, which i wakled from the start of the serrator for 20'. after that, the crack becomes too big for the last 15'-20' or so. it would be nice to have two #6 cams; its a little scary being 60' off the deck with basicaly one cam between you and a ground fall.
Gotta give credit to Alan the Brit for putting this one up in 2002?
By C Tirrell From: Fort Collins, Co May 11, 2009 rating: 5.11a
Such an striking, fun line. Really only a 20 ft section of offwidth before the line eases up considerably. Bring two C4 #6s for the 'serrated' section or push one for 30 feet or so to a stance below the final moves.
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