The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
How pumpy can a 70' route be anyway? OK, come find out.The climb is a striking, shallow dark, right-facing corner well left on the Fin Wall. This is perhaps 100M right of Crappichino. There is a plaque at the base last I saw.
Climb up from the base and set overhead pro. Move up to a stance with a wider jam, place more overhead pro and then gun for a while in off-size jams or a hard lieback to reach a narrow stance on decent feet 2/3 of the way up. Maybe you placed more pro, or maybe you risked a fall. Arrive exhausted and rest on the foot to the left of the crack, place gear and and then gun up a few more mvevs to a good jam, placing more pro. Go for the awkward finish with a large piece, or perhaps above your gear.
If you can't jam this size, you might not get much gear. Though you can get more, I suspect it's a "4-piece" route for many non-jamming folks unless they hang or are mutants. The anchor is just above the slopey topout and is exciting to get to. Please Rap off instead of lower to avoid beating the rock with your rope. If you set a TR, please consider a long sling or cordalette.
Protection
1.5" to 3" extra 1.5 and 2"If you want overhead pro at the top-out, take one wider piece.
A great pitch. No doubt that it's pumpy, but Tony overstates the case when he indicates that anyone less than superhuman will have difficulty placing more than four pieces. I placed at least three times that many.
People with limited wingspan or fat fingers will probably find the crux to be in the middle, reaching past the section where the crack pinches down; if you want pro above your feet for this section, you will want a piece smaller than 1.5", e.g. red Alien.
The sign is still there. Great route that gets harder up to the crux. Definitely need some small cams be prepared for finger locks and no feet. Once I got past the crux and finger locks I never though a ring lock would feel so good.
As entertaining and dramatic as the route description, it was very discrepant from my experience. Seemed solid the entire way with a cool thin section in the middle spanning between fingerlocks. Pro was available whenever needed. I placed a total of 9 pieces. Finish was grunty but still fun. This climb offered just about the entire spectrum of jamming sizes. Hand size really makes no difference on this route;no matter what size your hands are, you will have good and bad jams.
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