The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
BETA PHOTO: Johan Gille on The Piano, The Fin, Indian Creek, U...
Description
Beautiful finger to thin finger crack. It's only 30 ft., but you have to work for it. Very strenuous. The climb is in between Walkin' Talkin' Bob and Brother From Another Planet. A huge boulder hides the start of this route. Start in a right facing corner and layback up to the roof. Pull up and left out of the roof in order to switch into the left facing corner. Use the face out left for your left foot. Sweet line.
Protection
0.5 Camalot, 2 yellow Aliens, 2 or 3 green Aliens, 2 blue Aliens.
In a reasonable world, I would give this route two stars, but I'm shorting it to bring the average down to an IC fair two star. In my book (and I actually discussed this with other people), there is no way a 30' IC pitch could ever warrant classic status.
That said, Piano is quite good while it lasts, though totally finger size dependant -- bigger is harder.
Correction: this climb is just to the right of brother from another planet
By Clayton Laramie From: Boulder, CO Mar 31, 2008 rating: 5.10+
Great crack but super short. Agree it's too short to be a classic at the creek but it would classic for sure if it were two or three times as long. Similarly it would be an 11- if it were longer too.
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