The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Way Rambo is located near the top of the approach trail to the Rambo Wall. Upon reaching the top of the trail and the routes Rochambeau and the Fuzz (or whatever that long-ass 5.10 hand crack is), head left around the corner and look up. You'll see an incredibly striking hands - thin hands - off fingers splitter with two distinct leftward hand traverses, one at 30 and one at 80 feet approximately. This is the crag's namesake and one of the more fabulous and kick ass cracks around. The basic consensus is 'way bitchin' and 'way fuckingradman' and, my own creation, 'way butter', a play on way nutter. The first half of the pitch is 5.10, and as the crack narrows the grade steepens.
Protection
The guide suggests about ten pieces of pro. 4 in the 2.5 in. range, and 2 or 3 2, 1.5, and 1 inch pieces. which breaks down to 2 #2 camalots, 2 or 3 #1 camalots, and what in my experience was basically #.75 camalots to the top of the pitch. although a slightly smaller piece will fit (i.e. a red metolius, etc. towards the end of the pitch).
Does anyone know what time of day this particular route goes into the sun? I'm not sure but it seems to face more south than the other routes here.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Nov 1, 2005 rating: 5.12a
I think that the grade is size dependant, as IC always is. Big enough fingers and the crux is not bad, small enough hands and maybe that's OK too, but boy, those would have to be very small hands. The crux was a narrow offset just below the last traverse, a loose 1.5" crack. It spit me off.
The last traverse was bomber enough all the way to the finish that I more or less campused that section to the chains on my second try at the route, even though tired.
Regardless, I thought that this route was hard enough to be 12-, as I fell *following it* although I flashed a few 11+/12- on the same trip. Owch.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 26, 2006 rating: 5.12-
Hello - The first free ascent of "Way Rambo" was done by Steve Petro and myself in about 1990 or so. About the same time we did the FFA of "Slice and Dice".
At some point routes become so good that they reach a status of 'potentially best climb in the world'. Way Rambo is to that end, where someone could easily argue that some other climb is 'better' but it's so subjective at that point. At the very least, this is one of the most classic lines I have ever been on!!!
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