The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This route lies a long way around the right side of the 2nd Meat Wall. It is characterized by a wonderful section of splitter hands in a vertical wall. This crack is just right of a highly visible tips splitter that I believe is yet unclimbed. The route starts left of the hand crack at the left side of a blocky pillar. Start at a finger crack in a corner and follow the low-angle blocky corner to reach the base of the vertical splitter (about 50 feet). Pull off the pillar with a few tight hands moves and cruise up the gorgeous perfect hands crack for about 50 feet. Here the crack decreases in angle and increases in size to an offwidth slot. Squeeze through this section to reach an anchor on the wall left of the crack at 130 ft. Don't be intimidated by the offwidth, it is probably only 5.8 or something, and the section of hands is well worth the walk and the discontinuity.
Protection
1 (.75 in), 2 (2 in), 3-5 (2 Camalot/equivalent), 1 (3.5 in.), and optional larger piece in the 4 Camalot range
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