The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Dominik Franz enjoying good rest on a hand jam mid...
Description
Head up easy hands in a corner to a roof (stem). Best to backclean or run out the hands stretch to avoid rope drag. Pull around the corner into fingers leading to a strenuous stance beneath the 2nd roof. Pull this roof to another strenuous stance beneath the 3rd roof. Above this roof sequential jamming leads to the chains but there are no stances so you'll either need burl to place gear or balls to punch it for a short ways.
Protection
A couple of 2-3" pieces, many fingers sized pieces.
It's to the right of Scarface, about a hundred yards. There are two roof cracks, one Comic Relief, the other Not That Funny. Both are to the left of the mega-classic Desert Vaurnet.
one of scarface' finest routes! goes from hands directly to fingers and pulls 3 little roofs. crux is actually after it gets vertical again towards the top since your feet are quite slippery and insecure. "just lay back, dude"
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