The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Don't think we are supposed to climb this anymore.
Description
Located just to the right of Marvelous. This climb is superb and sustained. Crank up easy finger locks to a fifteen foot section of stenuous offwidth. After the offwidth comes a section of baggy fingers with some feet and then a section of perfect fingers and no feet. Awesome line!
Protection
A large piece for the start, like a #4.5 Camalot, and then many finger pieces.
By Beached Nuts From: Bermuda bitches Nov 15, 2007 rating: 5.12b
Though it has hard moves and is 90 feet, it's loaded with rests and is not pumpy. Moves this hard without rests would make this ultra hard, fortunately, that isn't the case here.
This goes back to the "overall difficulty" vs "hardest move" rating idea. Yep, it's got some way hard moves but compared to say Wiggins II or Sacred Cow this route is easy, even though it's got harder moves than both.
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