The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Top Sirloin is a very clean left-facing corner of amazing uniformity, plaqued, to the left of Tube Steaks etc. which are at the top of the trail. It's all about thin hands in a corner. My large-handed buddy found the crux to be about 40 feet up in a shallow flare where he found it necessary to pull on a couple of #2 Friends; I was able to free this while placing red camalots (hence the 'optional' #2 F's).A 60m rope was barely workable.
Protection
8-10 red (#1) Camalots and #2.5 Friends; 2 #2 Friends (optional); 1 4" piece for the bottom.
12-13 red camalots may be overdoing it. You can get by with 8-10, and as I remember there was even a place for a gold or two. This is one of the best corners at the creek.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 26, 2006 rating: 5.11
This is a must-do on a cliff that has quite a few outstanding climbs. No trickery on this climb, just be ready for red-camalot sized jams from start to finish. Towards the top it kicks back and pods out to where there are some good hands.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Mar 19, 2007 rating: 5.11
Go for it between pods and stems! Smaller hands are helpful. Harder than Blue Gramma and other climbs at the grade.
By Dpurf From: Superior Apr 30, 2007 rating: 5.11+
What a great climb and the one thing that kept going through my head was 'This crack is going to get bigger up there, it's got to'. But it never does. Thin Hands forever.
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