The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
The BLM has requested that climbers no longer climb this route for archaeological preservation reasons.
Description
One of the bigger sandbags at Indian Creek? Felt harder to me than most of the 5.11 thin hand corners at Battle of the Bulge.
1st route to the right of Jane Fondas, directly left of the "indian ruins". Steep tips liebacking off the deck, to wide fingers liebacking to get to a rest. A strenuous and pumpy 20 feet of climbing. Cop a decent rest then continue up the narrowing corner, until a tricky traverse right to gain a hand crack. Continue to the chains. The only way I can see justification for "10+" is the fact that its a little shorter than some of the other climbs at Battle of the Bulge. Total length of climb is 60-70 feet.
Protection
Aliens: 2 green, 2 yellow. Friends: 4 #1, 1 #1.5, 1 #2. Camalots: 1 red and 1 yellow.
This climb is 5.11. With the tricky start and sustained climbing, there is no justification for a 5.10 grade (other than deliberate sandbagging). Great route though and there is rarely anyone on it.
5.11 for sure. Edit (11/14/09)... damn I didn't know about the access issue when I got on this a few weeks back. I kinda feel like an ass for having climbed this now. I thought the Ruins reference was a joke since that little wind shelter is so recently maintained.
Hey Gang This is a pretty good climb. However, in a meeting with the Friends of Indian Creek and the American Alpine CLub, the BLM requested we stop climbing on it for archeological reasons. This is a valid request as the original ruins at the base were a granary. They have asked that we remove the anchors as well. As there are 10,000 other cracks in the area, lets just let this one be climberless. Thanks Sam
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