The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Dr. Mike starting the crux finger-stacking. I didn...
Description
This route lies approximately 50' to the right of the leaning pillar that defines Brokentooth Wall at the top of the approach trail. Cupping hands for the first 80', with rests in four or five flares fairly evenly spaced after 50'. Narrows to fingers near the top for the crux. Traverse right, go up, then back left to avoid the .11b if necessary. Can be TR'd with two 60's but you have to get around the knot. Great route!
Protection
Six or seven 3's for the first 80' or so, one number 2, two 1.5's, and two 1's for the crux (finget stacking crack) to the chains.
This is an all-time Indian Creek classic and probably one of the softer 11s you'll ever do. Its a great intro to finger stacks, since the crux section is less than vertical and there are slightly wider parts for the feet. If there are cars already parked at Broken Tooth when you arrive, then you best go elsewhere since there isn't a huge selection of climbs and everyone wants to do Rock Lobster.
By Jeff G. From: Fort Collins Nov 13, 2006 rating: 5.11b/c
This route is about 35 meters long and can just barely be toproped with a single 70m. Great pitch, pretty hard at the end, I would say it is solid 5.11.
I dissagree with the first comment. rock lobster is probably the easyest/best climb at broken tooth, but the relativly small buttress has many other stellar climbs.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Feb 3, 2007 rating: 5.11b
Fantastic climb! I would highly recommend this one to everybody. Great finish.
This is the best route I've done in the Creek so far. There's an ever so slight offset during the hands section, so figure out how to deal with it quickly or it'll upset your rhythm constantly.
I only took 2 #3s. Plenty of #2s though. Excellent cruiser hands up to that last pod. Great, tough finish. I learned how to ring lock on this one. My only question is who didn't give this thing 4 stars? Amazing!!
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