The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Chad working the finger crack, still a long way to...
Description
This long, steep, right-facing corner is right of the Johnny Cat alcove, just before the buttress rounds the corner to Fat Cat and Catastroph. 2 ropes are needed (a single 70m might work).
This is your typical Indian Creek endurance climb... no stopper crux, but lots of physical climbing. The climb starts with a slightly overhung lieback, eventually widening to hands. Climb quickly through the lieback... small hands people will get to thin hand jams reasonably quickly. The top is a mix of wide hands and pod climbing.
Protection
A few pieces in the yellow alien to green camalot size. Many thin hands to wide hands pieces (3 to 4) of each. A #4 friend or #4 camalot.
By Mike Munger From: Boulder, Colorado Oct 21, 2004
Two each of purple, green, red and yellow camalots, plus several blue camalots for the upper wider section will give ample pro. A single 70 m rope is long enough to lower off with.
There's a second pitch on Pit Bull Terror done by myself and Will Hays. Its another 80 feet or so of climbing with a fun undercling traverse into a good hands/Cups crack. About 5.10+/11-
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