The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Way down towards the right end of the Scarface wall (but not quite as far as 'Twitch') lies a sinuous left-facing corner formed by a precarious-looking pedestal with an hourglass shape at the base. It's mostly hands, in some form or other, the whole way, and not very long- maybe 70 feet. Gets great morning sun, a good warm-up.
Protection
1 #2, 1 #2.5, several #3, 1 #3.5 friends; a couple runners to minimize drag on the waves
Fun route, just be careful of the HUGE hollow flake on your left and some loose stuff on top.
By Jason Haas From: Westminster, CO Apr 23, 2006 rating: 5.10-
if you hit the massive flake to the left of the route while you are on the ground, you can make the entire wall sound like a bongo drum!
By Laurie Lambe From: Placerville, CO Oct 21, 2006
I think this climb is harder than most people say it is. Maybe it's just my perception but... Imagine doing the roof on Incredible Hand Crack with blue Camalots ...
By Dr. Evil From: Boulder, CO Apr 13, 2007 rating: 5.10-
This route is much easier if you stem to the crack out left while climbing the steep sections.
Excellent hands. Led it but it was hard for me through the 2nd roof. Cool climb tho.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Apr 30, 2009 rating: 5.10
This crack eats ropes very easily. Try to get your rope running in a straight line as much as possible. Place your cams selectively and use runners to avoid a zig-zag.
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