Bad Rad Duality 

This is an awesome, varied, and long pitch... definitely a welcome change from some of the monotonous #2 and #3 camalot slogs on Supercrack Buttress. Worth at least 2 stars.

I agree with the previous comment -- this is an excellent pitch, at least 2 stars, better than 3am, Supercrack, Painted Pony, Anasazi, Fingers ... and most of the other climbs on this cliff. Also, I do not feel it warrants an S.

Tony, I've lead the route at least three times from 1991 to 2001 and never had any problems w/ breaking rock. For that matter, I never felt concerned and normally I'm paranoid about everything.

Loose rock? Welcome to desert climbing, my friend. I beleive the route is called Rad Bad Duality Crack - but that is no big deal. Donini said it all - "best pitch on this buttress". Three stars at least.

OK, so the block won't pull. I'm satisfied. I assure you that in late spring of 2002 that there was a loose rock at the bottom dumping sand out of it and that more than one person there that day got freaked by it, even following. And not gumbies, mind you; my partner is a 5.11 on-sight climber who's climbed there for 10 years. As for the other climbs on the buttress, I've done a majority of them.
I'd get called a bragart jerk if I said it isn't that bad and told that I'm going to hurt someone by downplaying it. Then I try to post cautions and I get 'downgraded' from hoity-toity to desert gumby.

EDIT: in 2009, the block is rock-solid & not budging.

I don't think this route deserves the 'S' rating. Yes there is a loose block, but it is not hard to avoid tumbling it on you or your belayer. You can also pull up on it and it won't flop out. I have been on several towers which were much more spooky but no S rating. Being aware of the block and doing your best to avoid it makes it safer.

This is my favorite single pitch at supercrack buttress.

I will be in the creek after Tday. I am trying to avoid the whole supercrack buttress-battle of the bulge crowded mayhem, but if I get sucked into going there I will check it out. Has anyone tried to pull the block off?

casey bernal

Looks like all the view points on the block have been covered, but I thought I'd just add my vote. The climb doesn't warrant an "s" rating and block, though loose, is not that dangerous. If you don't know how to pull on or around a loose block, well, you'd better not climb any towers in Utah.

It's gotta be the best pitch on the buttress if Donini said so. I've done seen his picture in a magazine or two.

the bottom should not be a problem for the competent leader. my favorite corner on the whole cliff. the wide section up high is exciting but pretty easy.

first ascent October 1985 by Mic and Bill. we eschewed the trend of putting "crack" into the route name, and called it Bad Rad Duality. of note were the two big blocks (2'x3'x3') wedged into the corner about 40' up the route. it was scary for me to climb past and trundle them on the first ascent. we were a bit gear deficient back then, so it warranted an "R" rating, probably now overridden by them fancy cams. a bit of loose rock remains on many desert climbs, so bring your gonads. someday, we'll fire off that triangle roof and make a pitch 2 !!

Could be the best route at the crag. Line just keeps going and going. Barley get down with a 70. The roofs at the end add to the pump too. Didn't think it warrants S anywhere on the route but teh fingers on the side of the blow down low are committing.

CL

best route at the crag. varied sizes, varied moves, way fun