The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Just to the Right of Coyne Crack Simulator, there is a set of right-leaning cracks that starts at the ground, and become a more singular crack that moves to the right at a wide spot (crux, protected by a #4 or 4.5 camalot). Run up the bottom, place good gear with a long sling in the wide spot, then OW-grovel or Power-layback a few moves around the wide flake, up and right, before coming to rest in the handcrack. Shoot for the top on 10- moves from there.
This climb is about 90' long. Using a single 60 Meter rope was no problem, but I am not so sure about a 50M.
Protection
A good rack of cams 1.5-4" with at least one #4 camalot. The crux is protected by a 4 or 4.5 camalot.
Different Strokes for different Folks. I posted the consensus grade. I personally felt that it was 10+/11- for the awkward move by the wide spot. It depends what you compare it to. For me and Joseffa, it was a lot harder than Speghetti Western, which is supposedly 5.11d!!!
My partner, who on-sights 5.11 (a *_lot_* of 11's at I.C.) had a hell of a hard time even following this route, falling several times. So who's to say?
This is the most overrated route (difficulty, not quality) I've found in the creek yet. Definitely fun. Definitely only 5.10. For me about the same difficulty as IHC and actually easier than Supercrack (I have slightly smaller hands but not tiny). Very fun with a very bizarre but cool move up high in a kinda wide flaky section.
This route is easy depending on your wingspan. If you're short, you can't go as high using the crack on the left and it's harder. I am 6'2'', and I have sent an 11a :)
I really liked this route. Strenuous climbing up the .75 / tight #1 crack to the ledge then a hard mantle and reach to establish in the upper crack. The gear isn't straight forward. You either pull the mantle 5 feet above the slung chockstone or figure out how to place gear somewhere. Quality route!
after sending this route today i came home to find that i had not only cut a hole in my pants, but also left a big gobi on my knee.....wounded indeed! great climb!
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY Apr 13, 2009 rating: 5.10+
The "5.11" move is casual if you know how to climb offwidths. Seriously. Felt like 5.9. For me, the hard part was the tight-hands section to get to it. I'm terrible at that size.
Don't look beyond if you don't want the ultra-secret beta:
Kneejam and look right. Jesus people. You can see it from the ground.
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