The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Good view of just about the whole route (it's a lo...
Description
Yet another sexy crack at the Creek. To find this beauty, head WAY right when you reach the wall. Just before a drop-off is this spitter appears. It is long... It also has a few pods in it and meanders a little. When I climbed the route, there was a plaque at its base (just in case you can't recognize this good crack). This climb has been given an R rating by some because of a blocky section. Most of this short section is solid and will protect. Also, a second bolt is at the anchor now to supplement the FA's creative metal work.
Jolly Rancher begins as tight hands (2 Friend/1Camalot) and slowly widens. The majority of this pitch was cupped hands (wide 3 Friend/tight 3 Camalot). Worry not - cupped hands make for good feet. Towards the top, the size narrows to fingers at the somewhat blocky section and foot holds appear on the last bit.
Protection
Gear required for this pitch ranges from 3/4 to 4 inches. Bring 3 or 4 pieces in the 2 to 2.5" range, at least 6 3" pieces, at least 3 3.5" pieces and save a second 1" piece to back-up the belay. This route is about 140' and requires 2 ropes for the rap.
I do not think this route is "R" rated. The blocky section up top is about 10ft. long and can safely be protected both before and after it. Be sure to bring double ropes for this route. a 70meter rope will leave you about 15ft. off the deck even with stretch.
By Danny Inman From: Westminster Dec 6, 2006 rating: 5.10
Very nice route, if #3 BDs are your size, get on this thing. As for the "R", no way this is an R. As Jason Haas said, bomber gear below and immediately after the blocky section.
Best route in the Creek. 150ft of varied climbing. Thin hands, perfect hands, wide hands, fingers, ringlocks, even a little offwidth. Probably the best route i have ever climbed. Make sure to bring some small stuff for the top (single set of camalots from .3 to .75 ought to do).
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