The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This route is about 250 feet to the right of Supercrack. You can't miss the obvious OW that starts from a pedestal and is the start of the route. A pretty burly route in general. It starts off in an OW which is very conducive to laybacking. A #5 Camalot makes this section tolerable. Where the OW constricts to thin crack there is a notch which the rope runs directly over and threatens to bind up the rope. Avoid this by placing a #0 TCU there to keep the rope out of the crack. After that, start laybacking and slamming the 1.5 Friends. Don't get tunnel vision, there are rests. Get psyched for the roof at the finish. It's burly but all there.
Protection
Many, many #0.75 Camalots or 1.5 Friends (no fewer than 10). One #5 Camalot for the OW/layback start. One set of TCUs should suffice for the low thin-crack section.
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