The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This route goes up the right side of the tower between Easter Island and Thumbelina, left of a big left facing dihedral. Look for a thin hand to a zig-zag offwidth. The first pitch goes up a hand to an offwidth crack, over a bulge with cool liebacks using two cracks to a bolted belay. The second pitch goes up a short, thin crack to easier climbing to another bolted belay. Both pitches are 5.10. The last pitch goes past a bolt above the belay through some hard, bouldery 5.11 moves to a subsidary summit and another bolt. Lean across the gap between this summit and the true summit to a crack, then left to the belay and the top. Don't forget to sign the summit register. One single rap down this pitch, then it is possible to make a double rope rap with 200 foot ropes to the ground.
Protection
Cams of all sizes. It is easy to string the first two pitches together. I used up to a #4 Camalot on the first pitch, and a #3.5 Camalot is also helpful. Also bring some small cams and at least doubles of hand sized pieces. Bring two #2 and a #3 Camalots for the last pitch an a couple quickdraws.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Feb 28, 2002 rating: 5.11a
If you are looking to lighten your load of cams, skip the wide stuff. I think I did it with nothing bigger than a #3 and I didn't run it out much. The first pitch isn't very difficult where it is widest anyway.
By Ross Keller From: Conifer, CO Oct 15, 2002 rating: 5.11a
Can be done in a single pitch with suprisingly little rope drag. You'll need a 70m cord, extra hand-sized gear (triple 1-3 Camalots) and 4 or 5 long runners. There's only a single 5.11 move with a good bolt at your waist.
I found the first pitch pretty dang challenging (but great climbing) and was glad to have some wide stuff (4 and 5 Camalot - although a second 4 or maybe a 4.5 would be better than a 5). On the last pitch, I aided to clip the bolt and then freed by going way left to start and then back right over the bolt. Would have been pretty scary otherwise.
p1 and p2 may be good in one pitch, the start of p3 possibly best by traversing left. The description and topo in the Bloom guide are definitely wrong, from the pre-summit its maximum 5.8. With a double rope, abseil is also possible straight down to the bottom of the chimney and then just walk out the south side.
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