The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
It's hard for me to give a fifty foot route 3 stars, but this route deserves it-- a beautiful splitter in a perfect corner, it often appears in guidebooks and climbing magazine photos. Hands, then wide hands with a little arm jam for the last move to the anchors. It is located up and left from the parking pull-off. Look for a large right facing corner, leading to a sandy shelf with anchors about 50 feet up. The next corner to the left is "Dawn of an Age", a 5.10 3-5 inch corner crack which is easily toproped from the anchors.
Protection
bring a few 3 friends, a few more 3.5 friends, and maybe a 4 friend for the last move
Just a comment (as a research scientist in earth science) on Charles' description of this route as a "splitter" - Supercrack is a splitter, this route is a dihedral. Looks beautiful though!
Very high quality pitch. Short and sweet, and a great introduction to I-Creek.
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY Mar 18, 2006 rating: 5.9
Can be done with two 3.0 friends, five 3.5 friends, and one 4.0 friend (or 2 gold #2, 5 blue #3, and 1 black #3.5 camalot), if you want to sew it up. Its only 50 feet, and the 3.0 won't fit after the first 15 feet.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 14, 2006
A good warm-up for the other routes at the cliff. I would recommend several #3 (blue) camalots, and 1 larger (3.5 or 4) piece for the top.
Excellent warmup. One of my favorites. Average-sized hands all the way. A small wide section at the top (4 friend).
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY Mar 23, 2008 rating: 5.9
Upon review, even placing a lot of pro, 4 #3 camalots, 2 #3.5 camalots and one optional (aka chicken) #4 camalot for the very top will almost over protect this route. Also, a plaque has appeared, dubbing this thing the "Mexican Unicorn", but is of dubious provenance. Still 5.9.
By Sorden From: Inside the Bubble, Colorado Sep 2, 2008
I'm guessing it probably wasn't the first ascensionist who took the liberty of naming this route " Mexican Unicorn." If we're going to start naming all the best "unnamed" or "no name" routes in the Creek, then I hereby declare the 5.10 "No-Name Crack" on Supercrack Buttress will forever hence be known as "Hand-Job Love Fest." Mike Sanders came up with this very clever and appropriate name for the previously unnamed classic years ago, but we didn't have the courage to be so presumptuous or arrogant as to name it for the world since we didn't climb it first. Thank you, unnamed namer, for giving us the inspiration to change history for our own satisfaction.
good warm up.....4 blue camolots and approach shoes make this worthwile
By Tavis Ricksecker From: flagstaff, az May 28, 2009 rating: 5.9+
Agreed, four blues is all you need.
By Rob Davies UK From: Cheshire, UK Oct 27, 2009 rating: 5.9+
Brilliant, even if short. I only had 2 3.5 Friends so had to use a DMM No. 4 in the upper section which inevitably got stuck. Whoever gets it out is welcome to keep it - and it's nearly new! Hard to grade this route as you keep repeating the same straightforward move all the way up but this gets more than a bit tiring after a while - in UK terms E1 4c perhaps? It's like a much more sustained version of Flake Crack at Helsby.
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