The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
A beautiful fun route, and the easiest crack system on Supercrack Buttress. There's a good bit of liebacking on the smaller crack and then jamming and laddering on the wider to good anchors 40' up. It's not a classic and hence usually open; well worthwhile for climbing as a moderate on the buttress or while waiting for other climbs on the north end.
Climb up the main trail to Incredible Hand Crack and head N (left) about 80'. If you hit a leaning pillar at 130', you've gone about 40' too far - head back past a large bush. The little crack is in a right-facing dihedral, and the larger crack becomes the primary about 20' up. Good anchors, good toprope or something to play on when you're waiting or pumped from more serious endeavours.
It's a very good route, but only rates 2 stars because of the stellar stuff surrounding it.
Protection
Double rack plus of #1 to #3 camalots for the short route should suffice. The left crack takes the small gear early, then the right takes the larger stuff later.
Every time I've been to IC there have been gaggles of people hanging on Twin Cracks all day long. It seems to be the favorite entry level climb.
I'm also a little confused about the rating. Maybe 5.8 or 5.8+. It seems far easier than other nines in the area. For example, Generic Crack is called 5.9+. To me, Generic should be rated at least a full grade more difficult than Twin Cracks.
Great crack, easily protected and not too sustained. I will also add I would place it at a 5.8 or 5.8+ Its easy to get away without actually climbing the crack for those unexperianced indian creek cracksters like myself.
Just got back from my second trip out there, and I HIGHLY recommend this as a first climb in the area. Twin Cracks is awsome, but NOTE: RIGHT HANGER IS LOOSE!
I agree that this is an excellent climb, and a good introduction to the area. I would also call it 5.8+ at most, whether you use the cracks or not. Probably closer to 5.8 if you use the cracks - once located, the jams are reassuringly bomber all the way up (unless you have small hands - then you might have an off-fist or two at the top with good face holds for your right hand), and good rests are easily located.
By Ben Mottinger Founding Father Oct 7, 2002 rating: 5.8
If you are looking for a 5.8, you only have a few options so do the route, but it's just not that good compared to the splitters.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Oct 3, 2007
this is a fun route
By didieat From: Laramie, Wyoming Sep 21, 2008 rating: 5.8+
Poor little crack don't get no respect. Anyway, I protected it with 2 #3 Cammies at the ends and 2 #2's in in the middle. The climbing is so incredibly positive, you really don't need pro until the thing splits. At least I thought so.
By Rob Davies UK From: Cheshire, UK May 8, 2009 rating: 5.7+
Many climbs here seem to have sandbag grades (especially for an over-the-hill slab climber) but this is a very soft touch. Only 5.7 - Hard Severe 4b in Yorkshire.
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