The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Jay enjoys the gradually tapering hand crack just ...
Description
There are some awkward sections, particularly prior to the transition from fingers to hands, but plenty of holds lower where they're useful, and a few places for feet stemming (it goes both as a lieback and a jam higher). Good anchors, 70' (I'm a wimp, used 16 pieces), and a good choice if solid jamfest climbs are occupied or if you're more mixed in your technique than just jam-jam-jam.
It's located 40 feet north (left) of Coyne's, faces west/northwest. Look for lower anchors than the other climbs in the area with a fingers flake opening to a left-facing #3 featured crack. The belay pad is a walkway along the buttress' base so be courteous.
I only rate it a 2-star because there are so many awesome cracks around it to climb. It's still very worthwhile and I thought an awesome climb.
Protection
Mix up medium to large cams; blue and yellow TCUs help low, and 4-5 #3-3.5 camalots higher, with a few other pieces in the spectrum. A #4 camalot works if you're light on 3s. Guidebooks vary in their suggestions of gear, but I was happier going heavy.
good gear description. stewart green's book recommends gear to #3 friend (which seems really small for the top). i would definitely recommend bringing several pieces around #3 camalot size. fun route, kind of eldo-esque at the start (especially if you pound on the flake-drum at the bottom :)
Some fist side gear is in order whether that's a #4 friend, a #4 camalot or a #3 - #3.5 camalot. A couple in that size might even be a good idea. Both the Indian Creek Climbs guide book and the Super Topo from Rock and Ice list the rack as only up to #2.5 friend. This is definitely an error.
The awkward sections require some thought and footwork atypical of most Indian Creek splitters. Nice weight shifts and changing crack sizes and angles make this a fun, unique line.
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