The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This climb is located not too far to the right of the approach trail as you face the cliff.This climb is the left of 2 nice looking cracks you will see as you arrive at the cliff. This climb starts as fingers/rattly fingers and widens at the top to cupped hands/tight fists (if your hands are small). The business has a left-facing offset similar to Coyne Crack at Super Crack Buttress - hence the name. This is a great choice for a first 11- lead in the Creek. There is a great stance (very small ledge) about 4 feet off the deck from here, you can place a piece or two high and gun it. The crux is short and the rock quality is good. It only gets 2 stars because its a short climb.
Protection
Bring one of each from 1.5 - 3.5 Friends. I did not have a 3.5 and was alright. This climb is short - probably no more than 50 or 60 feet. At the end of the crack step right to the anchors.
Not to be rude, but why do you guys care so much about the grades? Low self esteem? If ever there was a place where grades are subjective, the creek is it, so I can't imagine anyone would lend any credence to your claims of downgrading. Coyne crack was easier for me than No Name Crack. That doesn't mean that Coyne isn't 12 and No Name isn't a 10. Give your egos a rest and give some thought to why you climb; you might enjoy it more.
cool route, not nearly as pumpy as Coyne itself. .75 is rough for me. worthwhile climb, do wounded knee right next door while you're here.
CL
By Brian Scoggins From: Laramie, WY Apr 13, 2009 rating: 5.10+
The ringlock section is made a lot easier by the number of footholds near the crack. Even if you have to hangdog to the hands section, this route is worth getting on. You'll probably cruise it on toprope.
I packed 1 .5 camalot, 2 .75 camalots, 2-3 #1 camalots, 1-2 #2 camalots, and 1 #3 camalot, although its not really necessary, since it goes in 4 feet below the chains. The chains are kind of inconvenient to get to, but its not a deal breaker. Bring long slings if you intend to toprope this climb.
Good short route, but a terrible name. I don't know how many people I have heard say "I have done Coyne Crack Simulator, am I ready for Coyne Crack?" In my opinion, Scarface is a much better Coyne Crack Simulator than this one.
scarface? interesting choice. been ages since i have been on it, but it seems like steep start with big moves between good jams, to thin hands to perfect hands? i'd say that the climbing on CCS is more similar to CC, although infinitely shorter. i think you are right though, that scarface has components that would be useful for coyne crack.
maybe a good progression for somebody wanting to work up to coyne crack would be (?):
jane fondas workout, battle of the bulge wall (10c) cave route, battle of the bulge wall (10d) soul fire, optimator wall (10d/11a) excuse station, res wall (11a) rock lobster, broken tooth wall (11a/b) pente, res wall (11a/b) top sirloin, 2nd meat wall (11b) fatted calf, sacred cow wall (11b) thank god for pods, pods wall (11b) way rambo, way rambo wall (11b/c) heat searcher 2nd pitch, broken tooth wall (11c) 9 lives, cat wall (11c) mad dog, cat wall (11c) johnny cat, cat wall (11d)
i would think if somebody worked their way through these routes, they would be fairly prepared for an onsight attempt on coyne crack. curious to see what other people think, or what routes they would add to the list.
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