The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Around the corner to the right from Cave Route is a nice, shady alcove. Above its right edge is a nice thin hands crack. CLimb this (cool) to a good hands crack (better) and up and into a slot (really damn cool). Pull around a brief roof to a good stance, and akkkkwardly pull around another roof on flared hand jams to a bolt anchor. I thought this last to be the crux, a friend who don't climb wideies thought the slot was the crux (but he fell at the upper roof). An excellent, varied and sustained line on perfect stone.
Protection
3-4 each 2 and 2.5/3 Friends. 2 each 3.5 and 4 Friends. 1 5 Friend.
Call me a wimp, but I though this might be 5.11- at the roof. It sure is harder than most local 5.10's.
By Tavis Ricksecker From: flagstaff, az Nov 26, 2007 rating: 5.10+
Kind of a turd compared to most of the other routes on the Bulge, and a sandbag to boot. When I did this route it was quite sandy, especially the last crux, and that big hollow flake wigged me out. The climbing is interesting though, and sustained. If you don't mind the sand(bag), go for it!
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