The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
The dihedral crack next to/underneath Gorilla. Easily toproped after leading the later. Starts off-fingers, then goes from thin to thinner, the crux being some serious laybacking around a slight bulge at about 60 feet. Leading this section would be damn hard, as there are few stances. After this, it widens and joins Gorilla.
Protection
A full 30 metres. Several each from tinny to hands.
I beleive this climb is named Pringles, and felt to me like about 11c/d or so. Somebody told me it was 11+. The first long bit is all thin liebacking, going from fingers to tippy tips, then nothing as you do some weird stemming through the crux bulge. Gorilla crack is easily reachable from here but is off. Using gorilla crack would definately lower the rating to 11-. Interestingly enough, at least 3 good rests are found in the lower lieback section, with the best, a no hands stem, coming in the middle of the crux moves, making this plenty leadable if youre solid at the grade. Regardless, its definately worth TRing, super quality.
RSS Feed
