The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
This is one of the best thin hand cracks at Indian Creek. From Pente walk left along the base of the wall for about 200-300 yards. Find the obvious splitter with a left facing dihedral immediately to the right (No Excuse- funky 5.10++). The route starts off as perfect, cruiser thin hands (maybe a bit strenuous for fatter handed folks) to a good rest below the crux final 15' of the route. The crux involves tough ring locks with some features for feet. The route is maybe 90' and can easily be done with one 60m rope.
Protection
A mess of #1 Camalots (or 2 and 2.5 friends), as well as a couple .75 camalots (maybe a .5 too) for the crux at the top. A #2 camalot was barely too big to fit.
sweet route, definitely worth the hike down to it, especially when combined with its neighbor No Excuse. I'd recommend saving a .75 camalot for the end
Awesome splitter, folks with meaty hands should expect it to be hard!!
I would expect ratings to be all over the 5.11 map for this one. Excellent example of a crack route where hand & even foot size can make a huge difference in difficulty. If your hands fit well enough your not going to find this route particularly hard but if they don't, depending on how bad they fit, be ready for a tough send!!
The smooth 25 foot section with no face holds to work with after the first 15 feet will be the crux for folks with bigger hands and the top 10 may be the crux for others. The crack opens a little in the middle & upper section and the closes down some at the top. At least at the top you have a small dihedral system to work with and layback a bit off of with your feet.
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