The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
I missed the on-sight on my first attempt, but got the red point the next day. There are two wide sections that a wasted to much this in. All though both of then short I got worked. I key to completing this route for me was to move fast, and place a little less gear. The pro is great and a fall clean.
Protection
A lot of #2 and #3 Camalot, two #4s, and 1 #1 Camalot at the top as a last placement. I loved this route.
This route is to the left of 3 am crack and also starts on a small pillar in a right-facing dihedral. It can be distinguished from 3 am by being a bit wider and lacking a roof. Another beauty of a climb.
I liked this route even better than Incredible Hand Crack or 3AM Crack. Look for the no hands rest (which I missed) halfway up. It can be done with a 60 meter rope, barely, but be very careful--one or two downclimbing moves might be necessary. The smaller pillar at the start is loose, so pull gingerly!
i've heard not just a few people refer to this as the "4am crack" - its similar but slightly bigger than 3am, right facing corner, etc. - mayber better than yet another nameless crack at the creek -
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 17, 2007 rating: 5.10
This was one of my favorite climbs of our trip. I have big hands, so it was more of an "incredible hand crack" for me than was the real "Incredible Hand Crack."
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Nov 6, 2008
Indistinguishable from 3am crack. They're the same!!
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