The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Short, but fun. Almost dead center in the Battle of the Bulge buttress between the cave and Jane Fonda's. Look for the 30' climb with a large flake resting at the base and small roof 10' above it. Scramble to the top of the flake, take a rest after a move and jam past the little roof. Cruise through the widening crack to a nice ledge on the right.
I saw a guide book (can't remember which one) with 5.8+ on the topo, but most will agree that there's a tough move or two getting off the flake and past the roof (9+?).
Protection
Singles from a #.75 Camalot to a #3 Camalot. Nice climb for those with a little rack.
Due to the widening nature of the crack, it is definitely a route to do if you're at Indian Creek and you only have one set of camming units. While waiting for friends (with friends) who were running late getting out of Moab, I managed this route with my meager set of units ... It's a VERY short route.
Although it may be harder than 5.8, the climb is a one move wonder from the stance just above the detached flake. From there it's cruiser hands. Just my $.02
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Apr 12, 2007
I thought it was rated 5.9 in the book... Whatever, I guess. It stills falls in the category of "5.fun".
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