The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Paul Tickner showing excellent form about half-way...
Description
Classic moderate climb. Very popular. Starts in a right facing corner next to the neon sign that says "Binou's" (actually just pecked into the rock - probably by Indians). Jam the crack until it gets tiny and a nice wide crack opens on the left, take a nice rest on a great knee jam, and scoot on up to the top.
Protection
A few #1 and #.75 Camalots, maybe a #2 Camalot (be sure to take a look first, I can't really remember), and a mix of Aliens or similiar small pro at the top. Instead of the small stuff, you can use big pro for the top.
This is a great leading intro to Indian Creek, but if you're a beginner, don't get to overconfident after ticking this one. Although, you can purely jam this for most of it, there are some wall features that allow for stemming and foot-outta-the-crack rests. The top will be a little more awkward if you have big fingers. Smaller hands will be able to get some good fingers in the thin crack. Doubles of the small stuff (blue, green, yellow aliens) can be useful if you're feeling nervous. Super-fun climb.
I can't figure out if that's a joke about the indians pecking "Binou's" or not.
By Ben Mottinger Founding Father Oct 7, 2002 rating: 5.8+
Atypical route for IC, but a lot of fun.
Better than twin cracks at Supercrack Buttress, but for its grade, it's not too bad.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Mar 29, 2004 rating: 5.8-
This is an easy 8 - certainly not a 9. Fun climb and a good route for people who haven't jammed much,
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 14, 2006
This is about as classic as it can get for the grade. Bring a few smaller pieces for the top. Unfortunate that "Binou's Crack" has been etched into the base of the wall. I guess that was before LNT practices.
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