The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
BETA PHOTO: photo of the route...tighter than it looks in that...
Description
From the parking lot, go across the drainage and then past the first trail (to Generic Crack). The next trail will take you up to the Chocolate Corner area. Hike past Chocolate Corner to a large inset chimney with two routes inside. This is the route on the right side of the chimney, ascending a slightly overhanging thin hands to finger crack in an acute dihedral/slot to a anchor composed of two drilled pins. About 70 feet.
Start up the seemingly frictionless thin-hands slot (with occasionally tolerable hand jams) to a pod, where you can place the #3 Camalot and milk a "rest". The 25 feet from the pod to the anchors is the crux, with acceptable and sometimes excellent fingerlocks. Hardmen and hardwomen will just jam straight up to the anchors, while the rest of us softies can use an inelegant combination of stemming and chimney technique to supplement the finger jams.Three stars anywhere else, but two stars at most for Indian Creek.
Protection
3 #1 Camalots, 1 #3 Camalot, double Aliens from yellow to orange. Heck, you could might even be able to use some larger stoppers on this if you wanted to hang around and fiddle them in.
Either way ... both routes are pretty fun and 5.10ish, although IMO the left route is a bit harder than the right one due to OW start and the relentless off-finger jams (I hate this size).
Good pitch; reminiscent of the tight dihedral pitch on the NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock. Seems like the knee-cam maneuver is necessary to keep the grade at 5.10, unless you have small paws.
A different kind of climb for the creek, less about jamming and more about finaglry. This was a proud lead for me back in the day and I am sure it still spits out climbers today.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Sep 21, 2009
Got an eyeful of sand on this one, ouch. Not a classic, but different and challenging, and stays cool in there. The unnamed to the left is longer and better.
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