The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This route follows an obvious right-facing corner through a slight bulge (hence the name). It is easy to identify as you walk along the base of the wall, and can be picked out from the Donnelly Canyon parking lot. Look for a right-facing corner that starts atop a block. It is vertical for a bit, then goes to less than vertical before it heads through the slight bulge. The route has two sets of anchors: climbing to the upper set is less contrived but the upper part of the route is slightly lower quality. I listed the rack for climbing to the lower anchors.
The crack is a perfect #0.75 Camalot or #2 Friend size all the way through the bulge. Get in the lieback and SPRINT! The clock is ticking, just plug in the next cam and go go go. I'm sure those with superior techinique or smaller hands will be able to jam more than I could. Once over the bulge, the crack widens slightly. For the liebackers, just pretend the bulge isn't there and you'll be fine.
This is a great first 5.11 lead as minimal thought and technique is required. After you get this route dialed, head to Black Corner or Three Strikes You're Out and go for the onsight.
Regarding the description above, this is a bad first 5.11 lead, since its probably the hardest of the 5.11 corners at Battle of the Bulge. I actually found Quarter of a Man to be easier. For a first 5.11 lead, do Crack Attack, Cave Route, Black Corner, or even 3 Strikes or Jane Fonda's. Also, I would recommend fewer #2 friends and more 0.75 camalots... the crack is too tight for #2 friends until the bulge. I go with 11+ for the lead, though it will feel substantially easier on TR.
By d-know From: electric lady land Jan 26, 2006 rating: 5.11
black metolious fat cams are nice on this one
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Apr 11, 2007
I don't understand why this crack is so commonly laybacked. I have average sized hands and feet and never fell into a layback once. It took my feet very well, so aside from being a bit painful the stress level was not too high (i.e. not a bunch of weight on the arms). Laybacking is strenuous, stressful and can create unpredictable falls. Why do it if you don't have to? I concur with the last poster that large hands and more importantly, large feet would make this climb quite difficult.
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