Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
The Optimator

Show routes:
Select route...
Anunnaki 
Bow Flex 
Brodie Machine 
Charlie's Pillar 
Chick Flick 
Choss Eliminate 
Ditch 'em 
Double Bock 
Hayutake (AKA "Heyduke Lives") 
Jive Crack 
Lady Pillar 
Long Island Iced Ted 
Mudslide 
Neat 
Optimator 
Pat's Blue Ribbon 
Ram Implosion Wing 
Sardikar 
Season of the Worm, The 
Soul Fire 
Two Jews On Crack 
Two Scoops 
Unknown A 
Unknown B 

The Optimator

Submitted By: Joe Gartner on Sep 24, 2002
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Views: 13,559 page views

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Discussions available in the
Southern Utah Deserts
Message Forum
  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: wall as seen from the parking area. the obvious r...


Description 

The Optimator Wall is in Indian Creek (as you may know) and is between the 4x4 wall and the Bridger Jacks.


Getting There 

Get There: take the 2 track road towards the "jacks" but fork left towards a south facing black wall.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Optimator:
Lady Pillar   5.10-     Trad, 110 feet   
Unknown B   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Neat   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Sardikar   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Long Island Iced Ted   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   
Hayutake (AKA "Heyduke Lives")   5.10+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Soul Fire   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Anunnaki   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Optimator

Featured Route For The Optimator
Kre starting up the route

Anunnaki 5.11c  UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator
This climb is found by follwoing the trail right until it goes behind the leaning Anunnaki Pillar just as you exit this, you will see a 3" crack that thins to 1" as it climbs 50' zig-zagging wildly through clings on it's way to a set of anchors. This is on the underbelly of the leaning pillar that faces the wall and is one of the steeper splitters in the creek, albeit a short route. Climb up perfect hands for the first half of the route and get r...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Comments on The Optimator Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Mar 28, 2005

At the cattle guard after crossing the creek turn left, away from the Jacks. turn right onto an access road and follow it for about 3/4 a mile to the hill below the cliff. There are a few camp sites along the access road and a turn around at the end. This will save you some walking.

By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2005

Great wall with longer pitches. Nice moring to noon-sun. Take your 70M rope!

By Sarah Kate
From: Boulder, CO
May 5, 2009

Favorite wall on the creek so far for the ladies. My hands are approx. WC .75-1 for "perfect hands", had a total blast all day up there. Afternoon shade, quiet. DO BRING THE 70 and a couple of nuts and brassies if you're looking at Hayduke.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 11, 2009

Sarah, you do mean BD .75 and 1 camalots for perfect hands...right? I'm not even sure if my 18 month old could get perfect hands in a #1 WC friend crack.