The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
A good area with a nice variety of climbs. Although somewhat remote, the climbing quality, concentration, and difficulty insures that this areas still sees a good amount of traffic. Most climbs reside in the 10+ range with a few 5.11 classics.
The buttress faces west and as a result gets good sun later in the day. With proper timing it's a good choice on both hot or cold days.
Getting There
From the Hwy 211/Beef Basin road junction head south several miles until you encounter a fence and cattle guard. A few hundred yards past this (the *second* road on the left) look for a well-maintained road that angles back to the northeast.
Take this road through an active creek (good 2WD's can make it) past the cottonwoods to another road junction. Turn right and go about a mile until you are directly under the point of the buttress where it starts to jut back east. Pull off the road and park. Road improvements in the past several years have trivialized the drive and taken a large chunk off the approach.
Find a cairned trail that follows a shallow wash (please take a second to find it!) and then up the talus to the base. From here, climbs fan out to either side, but take a topo or a knowledgable friend as very few plaques exist.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pistol Whipped:
Start with thin, bouldery moves to thin hands in an acute flare. Pull a roof, and follow a splitter that starts thin hands and turns to sustained big hands/fists. This classic challenges you on a variety of sizes and techniques, plus it's ultra sustained....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
As of November 09, a wash has taken out part of the road half way between the cottonwoods and the parking area. A route has been made through the washout and it is passable in a high clearance vehicle with 2WD. Due to the steepness of the drop in and out of the wash, and the short distance, a low clearance or vehicle with a long wheelbase might auger its front end into the opposite bank. Just a heads up since this spot may get worse in the future.