Mountain Project: Climbing Indian Creek

Supercrack Buttress is probably the most popular/crowded area at Indian Creek. Some of the most famous cracks in the desert are here - Supercrack, Incredible Handcrack, Coyne Crack, etc. Expect stellar climbing with good protection and a casual approach, but don't expect solitude.

Getting There

From the main parking area about 4 miles past Newspaper Rock, Supercrack Buttress will be obvious. Follow a well worn trail to the base, and look for the crowds to mark the start of most routes.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Supercrack Buttress:

Triple Jeopardy 5.8 Trad

Unknown, left of Keyhole Flake 5.10- Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Nuclear Waste 5.10- Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

No Name Crack 5.10 Trad

Keyhole Flake 5.10 Trad

Pigs in a Slot 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet

Gorilla 5.10 Trad

3AM Crack 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Supercrack of the Desert 5.10 Trad

Incredible Hand Crack 5.10c Trad

Bad Rad Duality 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet

The Wave 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet

Anasazi 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet

Binge and Purge 5.11b Trad

Amaretto Corner 5.11 Trad

Wild Works of Fire 5.11 R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Painted Pony 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet

Fingers In A Lightsocket 5.11+ Trad

Pringles 5.11+ Trad

Coyne Crack 5.12a Trad

Featured Route For Supercrack Buttress

Fingers In A Lightsocket 5.11+ UT : Moab Area : ... : Supercrack Buttress

This short, right leaning lieback is the climb immediatly right of Coyne Crack. It starts out fingers and gets progressively smaller as you get higher. The tactic is definitely climb fast, the rests really suck. About 1/3 height is a foothold to place gear off, but doesn't really give you a good rest. Continue climbing above and place yellow aliens from strenuous liebacks before the crack pinches down to tips. You could fit in a blue alien up hig...[more] Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Supercrack Buttress

Slideshow

Add Photo

BETA PHOTO: That's 3AM crack on the left, and Incredible Hand ...	Greg Jackson on the first pitch of [[105717400...	Supercrack Buttress
view from crag with parking options	beautiful day mid jan.2009	?
again ?	hmmm?	Supercrack Buttress

Comments on Supercrack Buttress

Add Comment

Show which comments —

By richard magill
Nov 5, 2001

I should note that the above picture is a rare bird indeed: a photo of Supercrack Buttress without a climber on Supercrack :)

By Scott N
Feb 23, 2004
Gear Alert

After going to S.C. Buttress earlier last week I noticed that on many of the more popular climbs (S.C, 3AM, IHC, etc....) the anchors are in need of some care. The bolts are all sound, but the some of the chains and rings are pretty worn. The quicklink on the right anchor on Supercrack is worn about 60% through(top and bottom). Amazingly enough a group was toproping THROUGH the anchor. I had an extra quicklink, but no pliers to unscrew the old one. I was hoping some of the regulars might think about updating some quick links here and there. Hopefully, next time I'll have some extras and some pliers/cutters to make these a little safer. I'd be nice if just a few people left some new gear so we don't have to be witness to a splatter.

By E.T.
Nov 28, 2004
Gear Alert

Just came back from Indian Creek over thanksgiving, and the bolts on IHC, supercrack, and 3AM crack all look bomber. (they may have been replaced/enhanced since Scott's post). I would agree that lowering through them would be hard on the gear though

Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
	ADVANCED

Supercrack Buttress

Description

Getting There

The Classics