Scarface

Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>> Check the Friends of Indian Creek website for up-to-date information, as well as the BLM's Monticello Field Office page. The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

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Description 

A great area with a fairly good selection of climbs, with most residing in the 5.11 range. Since it faces due south it gets good sun all day long and is climbable on all but the coldest days - which also means a miserable experience if you go up there when it's hot. While up there, you'll experience some of the best views in the region.

Most of the climbing is bound by two great routes - Black Uhuru on the left and Wavy Gravy (worth the walk) on the right. In between lots of great climbs can be found, including the mega-classic Scarface.

Getting There 

Continue past the Supercrack area for several miles on 211 as it winds its way along the cliffs. The large parking area can be found on the left side of the road just after a sharp left curve that goes into a long straightaway. The lot is several hundred yards before a fence and cattle guard, about a half mile before the reservoir, and a mile or so before the Beef Basin road junction.

Due north from the lot, look up for the prominent buttress gleaming in the sun. Find a good trail across the road and follow it as is dips into a wash before heading up talus to the base. Upon reaching the base, the majority of the climbs can be found on the left.

The Classics

Featured Route For Scarface

Comic Relief 5.12a  UT : Moab Area : ... : Scarface

Head up easy hands in a corner to a roof (stem). Best to backclean or run out the hands stretch to avoid rope drag. Pull around the corner into fingers leading to a strenuous stance beneath the 2nd roof. Pull this roof to another strenuous stance beneath the 3rd roof. Above this roof sequential jamming leads to the chains but there are no stances so you'll either need burl to place gear or balls to punch it for a short ways....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Scarface Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Beautiful fall color on the way to Scarface.	View from Scarface Wall at sunset October 22, 2006...	Eddie getting the last bit of light for the day. O...
mid jan 2009	a view near wavy gravy	close up