The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
BETA PHOTO: Panoramic view of Blue Gramma from the road.
Description
Blue Gramma is more or less the first major cliff (for climbing) in Indian Creek. It doesn't see as much traffic as the "big name" cliffs, but many of the routes are only 50 feet high or so and there are a great many worthwhile 5.9 and 5.10 routes, most of them "unnamed". This was the first wall I visited on my first trip to Indian Creek and it was a perfect intro. In fact the first route I ever did at Indian Creek, an unnamed 5.9+, is still to my mind one of the best I've done. You don't need 8 of every friend size here!
Getting There
Since it receives less traffic, this crag is a bit harder to find. It's a mile or so before you get to Supercrack buttress, at a good pull-out on the right. Look for a series of clean but comparatively short dihedrals near to the road, maybe 2-3 miles after Newspaper Rock. The approach is quite short as there isn't much of a talus slope.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Blue Gramma Cliff:
Climb up an initial steep move with a 1" or 1.5" cam to access the flake and slab- climb up easy moves leap-frogging the 1" or 1.5" gear to save it for later if you are shy on gear. Continue up to darker and steeper rock, placing a few larger cams (1-2 each 2"-3.5" cams) in wide spots, again to save your 1" and 1.5" gear. Access a good 'pod' in the flake which provides a great stance from which to launch the assault on the meat of the route- the ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
It actually is "Blue Gamma", after a type of grass, not a little old lady.
The cliff offers a lot of nice cracks. First timers at IC may appreciate that the lines are shorter, requiring less endurance and smaller racks. Still good stuff though.
That named seemed more logical, but all the guidebooks and every web reference I've come across refer to it as "Blue Gramma", so I went with that. I don't know if it was originally named Blue Gamma and then became corrupted or what-not.
I always thought that it was originally named "blue gamma." As in gamma rays. Then it was nicknamed "my blue haired gramma" which eventually became "blue gramma." Don't ask me how I know this!
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