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Reservoir Wall

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Another Unknown 
Cyborg 
Dr. Carl 
Ernie Used to Box 
Excuse Station 
From Switzerland With Love 
Frosted Flakes 
Good Excuse 
Gurka 
Left Crack 
Less Than Zero 
Marvelous! 
Middle Crack 
Ninja 
No Excuse 
Overlook, The 
Pat's Crack 
Pente 
Raja 
Skank on the Hanglow 
Slot Machine 
Unknown 5.11- 
Unknown? thought it was overlook 
UnNamed 5.10 ( 12) 
Unnamed 5.11 Fingercrack 
Warm-Up Handcrack 
Wigglin' Worm 
Will-Mento 

Reservoir Wall

Submitted By: Ben F on Nov 30, 1999
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Views: 28,288 page views

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  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

  • Some cliffs are occasionally closed due to raptor nesting. 14-day camping limit. MORE INFO >>>
  • Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>

  • Em getting her groove on the technical, eldo-esque...


    Description 

    This cliff stays shaded for much of the day and is good during the late spring or early fall. Overall, route concentration here isn’t quite as high as some other cliffs, but route quality is.

    Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.


    Getting There 

    Go approximately 8 miles past Newspaper Rock. Pass the reservoir on your right. Just a bit further down the road and also on your right, across from the road for Beef Basin, is the parking for this wall. Pass through the gate and veer slightly right, eventually hitting a trail. There are 2 branches off this trail. The first one puts you closer to the road, near Pente and the further trail leads you to about where Excuse Station is.


    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Reservoir Wall:
    Dr. Carl   5.10-     Trad   
    UnNamed 5.10 ( 12)   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
    Warm-Up Handcrack   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
    No Excuse   5.10+     Trad   
    Pente   5.11-     Trad   
    Ernie Used to Box   5.11     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
    Wigglin' Worm   5.11     Trad   
    Unnamed 5.11 Fingercrack   5.11     Trad, 80 feet   
    Excuse Station   5.11     Trad   
    Slot Machine   5.11     Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet   
    Gurka   5.12-     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
    Middle Crack   5.12-     Trad, 60 feet   
    Browse More Classics in Reservoir Wall

    Featured Route For Reservoir Wall
    Tony stretching towards the thin hands start to Pente

    Pente 5.11-  UT : Moab Area : ... : Reservoir Wall
    The first path leading to the wall puts you near this climb. Look for a large, I mean really large, detached block at the wall. Pente is the striking line just to the left as you face the wall. Look for a small alcove start with a crack on the right side (left facing), that pulls a small roof and leads to a small ledge. At this ledge, you should see some slings. The line then moves a few feet to the left to start the awesome and steep splitt...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


    Photos of Reservoir Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    Resevior Wall is tall and clean, giving rise to fantastic features, both climbed and unclimbed. Photo of unknown tower and corner at the Rez by Tony Bubb, 2005.

    Resevior Wall is tall and clean, giving rise to fa...

    I believe this shot was taken looking back toward the road from the Resevior Wall approach. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.

    I believe this shot was taken looking back toward ...

    Chris Parks on the walk down from Resevoir Wall at Sunset. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.

    BETA PHOTO: Chris Parks on the walk down from Resevoir Wall at...

    The crux move on "from switzerland with love"

    The crux move on "from switzerland with love"


    Comments on Reservoir Wall Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ben F
    From: Benfield, Kolorado
    Nov 25, 2001

    I was told (this past week) that climbing on the portions of the cliff facing the road is not a problem. However, approach as stated above and do not cross the private property. Note that this is what I "heard" and it needs to be verified as does my closure warning.

    By Rob T
    Sep 11, 2006

    As of May of 06, Heidi(Dugout Ranch) would still prefer that climbers not climb on the front face of Resevoir. It sucks, but there are tons of walls down there, i don't think we really need to force the issue on this one.

    By Monty
    From: golden
    Oct 17, 2009

    Not sure if the access has changed, but it doesn't seem as if anyone is following/ know about these guidelines as there is no information actually posted at any of the bulletin boards or at the wall.